“If you look for it, I’ve got a sneaky feeling you’ll find that love, actually, is all around.”

— Prime Minister David (Hugh Grant), Love Actually, 2003

Photo Essay: Last Weekend Before Christmas

December 20, 2020 by George Chen in Hong Kong

Theme: The last weekend before 2020 Christmas
Location: Central, Hong Kong
Photography: All shot on iPhone 11 Pro by George Chen (no filter)

#WhatGeorgeEats: 2020 Coffee in Review

December 20, 2020 by George Chen in Hong Kong

Intro

“If I am not in a cafe, I am on the way to the cafe,” says famous Austria writer Peter Altenberg, and his favorite coffee shop is the historic Cafe Central in Vienna.

I’m a coffee lover too. I’m lucky to live in Hong Kong because Hong Kong is like the Vienna in Asia — we are never short of good coffee shops. This post serves as a year in review for the ten most memorable coffee shops I enjoyed in 2020, from Omotesando Koffee, which already closed its original shop in Tokyo but decided to expand into Hong Kong, to local coffee lovers’ favorites like Winstons Coffee.

Add oil! Life is good because we love good coffee.

Fineprint

Fineprint’s co-founders came to Hong Kong from Australia and they quickly made their reputation in the coffee community here. Currently Fineprint has two branches, in Central and Tai Hang. If you don’t like big chains like Starbucks or Pacific Coffee, Fineprint is definitely the place to go — perfect reminiscent of the more friendly Australian style café and you can always get an avocado toast with your coffee.

Omotesando Koffee

People say that no visit to Japan is complete, without having visited Omotesando Koffee. Following the closure of their original shop in the Omotesando area of Tokyo, the cult coffee bar has expanded into Hong Kong this year. The most iconic Omotesando coffee is its iced Cappuccino — yes, you must ask for the iced one and you will know why it is special. (Hint: Cappuccino is usually made hot only.)

Blue Bottle

Blue Bottle needs no introduction. It’s known as the “coffee of Silicon Valley”. If you visit San Francisco, you can’t miss Blue Bottle. After its first-time expansion into Asia in Japan, this American boutique coffee chain finally got its footprint in Hong Kong. Its HK shop is located in the Soho area, right next to the famous Central–Mid-Levels escalator, which is the world’s longest outdoor escalator. My favorite at Blue Bottle is always Flat White. Price wise, I can tell you it’s more or less the same as in San Francisco. Well, both SF and HK are known as the world’s two most expensive cities for living. Not a surprise to anyone!

Cafe Leitz

OK. I know I’m biased. As a long-time fan of Leica cameras, how can I miss its namesake cafe in Hong Kong? Housed in the first Leica flagship store in Hong Kong in Causeway Bay, one of the world’s busiest shopping areas, Cafe Leitz is a coffee and lifestyle concept co-created by the guys behind Interval Coffee Bar. Expect a creative menu featuring a range of coffees – including speciality brews like the espresso lime tonic – as well as Hong Kong-style snacks.

Winstons Coffee

Winstons Coffee is many local coffee lovers’ favorite. Ranked as one of Asia’s top 50 coffee shops, Winstons is an independent coffee shop founded by 3 British men when they couldn’t find a store in Hong Kong that ticked all the boxes, there was always something missing. All they wanted was a killer coffee, in a friendly environment, served up by people who actually genuinely care about the customer. Its shop in Kennedy Town is quite an Instagram-friendly place. I love to have a selfie in front of the shop — sometimes with the big sign behind me, which says “We love Hong Kong.”

18 Grams

Currently Hong Kong has five cafes on the list of Asia’s top 50 coffee shops. This is the No. 27 in Asia and one of the top five in Hong Kong — 18 Grams, which roasts their own signature blend to keep all their coffee smell and taste very fresh. This coffee chain has several branches including one in Sheung Wan and another inside Times Square. In my previous life when I worked for the South China Morning Post in Causeway Bay, the Times Square shop of 18 Grams was my go-to place. A lot of good chats and memories there with my colleagues and friends. It’s more than just coffee. It’s always about the people and memory, isn’t it?

Barista by Givrés

Technically speaking, this one is more than a coffee shop. It’s an ice cream shop too. Even better, right? Barista by Givrés is on the corner of Staunton/Shelley Street, just off the famous Central–Mid-Levels escalator. Be sure to try its signature handcrafted Rose Affogato or Floating Rose. They are just perfect for Instagram photos. I think Barista by Givrés definitely confirms one thing — coffee and Ice Cream are the perfect match!

Halfway Coffee

Hong Kong is the paradise for coffee lovers We have five of Asia’s top 50 cafes in Hong Kong. This one (aka “半路咖啡” in Chinese) in my neighbourhood is not on the list (yet) but I like it. The paper cup is modelled on the very traditional Chinese tea pot and now you can drink coffee with it.

NOC Roastery

Also ranked on the list of Asia’s top 50 cafes, NOC Roastery is a fast-growing local chain with several branch shops mainly scattered on the Hong Kong Island. Its in-house signature choice of coffee is called “Dirty” (pictured), which is hot expresso into cold milk. It’s stronger than latte. At NOC, you can also have different choices of coffee beans for your own black coffee.

Preface Coffee

Last but not the least, I want to take the opportunity to thank and introduce a special coffee shop in Hong Kong that is worth your support — Preface Coffee. This year Facebook partnered with Preface Coffee for a meaningful project, the “World Size Coffee” for 2020 Good Causes Day, which celebrated its 5th anniversary this year. Now you can drink coffee, ship love, and contribute to a good cause. Read our story here in local media (Chinese only).

As we began to think about how the Covid-19 pandemic may have certain long-term impact on our work, life, and society, we quickly realised, in consultations with many of our NGO partners, mental health would be a key “side effect” problem facing Hong Kong, especially the youth. Hence we launched the #HearForYou campaign during the pandemic. Thanks to our friends and partners Tommie Lo and Stephen Chung (one of Hong Kong’s brightest ad men), we successfully launched the “World Size Coffee” project at Preface Coffee in Tin Hau. It’s more than a coffee shop as the parent of Preface Coffee is Preface Coding. Sounds like a perfect match of coffee and technology?

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Hong Kong’s signature pineapple bun, home-made by my colleague

#WhatGeorgeEats: 2020 Year in Review

December 19, 2020 by George Chen in Hong Kong

Intro

What can I say about 2020? A year of no travel. A year of work from home. A year of social distancing. My doctor jokes that everyone must have gained some weight. Well, I shall call it “happy weight”. If you are safe and well, and you still have good appetite for food, it’s already a blessing for you in the unprecedented year of 2020, isn’t it?

This post serves as a year in review for some food places I tried in 2020. I pick the ten most memorable ones, from Hong Kong’s only “Boeing 747 theme restaurant” (since we can’t travel this year) to a vintage hot pot spot (if you do miss the old Hong Kong).

Bon appetit. Life is good because of good taste.

Boston Restaurant

This is one of Hong Kong’s very first teppanyaki steak restaurants since 1966. Once upon a time, it was very popular among ladies and gentlemen for dating in this restaurant in the 1960-70s. Some critics say the restaurant has changed a lot (i.e. getting worse) from its original flavor and quality. To be fair, its pricing remains pretty reasonable. So does its food portion. If you want to try the old-fashioned Hong Kong-style Western food (港式西餐), this is still a good place to try.

The restaurant doesn’t take any booking. First come, first served. Avoid the peak hours unless you want to be stuck in a long queue for at least 30 minutes.

Cova Pasticceria & Confetteria

Cova is one of Italy's oldest pasticceria, established in 1817. It has several branches all over Hong Kong and quite popular among the local. Many eaters’ favorite at Cova is its Tiramisu or you can just go for its “three levels” afternoon tea set, which is considered quite a trend for the local middle-class. I personally find its lobster linguine also tastes pretty good, especially in fresh tomato sauce. The key to Italian cuisine is fresh ingredients. Cova can prove that.

The Galley by Cafe Proud Wings

Frankly speaking, if it was not because of 2020 and how much I miss flying, I probably would not find this restaurant in Hong Kong.

Let me Introduce you Hong Kong’s only “Boeing 747 theme restaurant”. You can choose “Economic Class”, “Economic Premium”, “Business”, and “First Class” set dinners. The differences are mainly about seafood, steak, and some wine. If you pick the “First Class” set, you will also have a tailor-made “flight ticket” with your name printed on it. How fun!

I won’t bother to write too much about its food, which is pretty average but this is all about experience, right? So, please fasten your belt, enjoy your dinner, and pretend you can still have a good flight in 2020. And don’t forget to make more selfies in the restaurant.

Royal Garden Fine Foods

Royal Garden is not a luxury hotel. It’s located in the centre of Tsim Sha Tsui and the hotel is getting quite old. What makes the hotel special in Hong Kong is actually its bakery. The locals will tell you Royal Garden probably has the best “butterfly cookies” (蝴蝶酥) in Hong Kong. Known for their caramelized exterior and multitude of flaky layers within, these French treats call for just two ingredients: puff pastry and sugar. But it’s all about how to make a balance. Not too sweet. Not too greasy. Royal Garden can prove it.

Butterfly cookies used to be a reflection of middle-class life in the old Shanghai in 1920-30s when Shanghai was heavily influenced by French and British culture and traditions. The Park Hotel (國際飯店) near the People’s Park in the city centre of Shanghai still makes its popular butterfly cookies to this day. If you can’t travel to Shanghai (or Paris), try Royal Garden’s butterfly cookies in Hong Kong.

Nepal Restaurant

This is the first Nepalese restaurant in Hong Kong, established in 1995 when Hong Kong was still British Hong Kong. The restaurant, owned and run by the Nepalese in Hong Kong, survived the 1997 Asian financial crisis, and then 2003 SARS, 2008 global financial crisis, and now it is trying to survive and revive amid the Covid-19 pandemic. That’s a great example of resilience.

My favorite is its grilled prawns. I may be biased because I generally prefer seafood to meat.

Dacha Restaurant & Bar

This Russian and Eastern European cuisine-focused restaurant is located on Hollywood Road in Soho area. It’s widely known among the expats in Hong Kong as the most authentic (and diverse too) Eastern European restaurant in Hong Kong. Don’t miss the traditional Polish salad as starter, which reminds of my last holiday in Warsaw. It’s also a very Instagram-friendly starter.

I picked “chicken roll” as my main course, which the restaurant staff said is a typical Ukraine cuisine. I checked with my Russian friends and they said the “chicken roll” looked much longer than those you can find in Ukraine. How did I find out this restaurant? Long story short. The restaurant owner is a very senior pilot for Cathay Pacific, as one of the airline’s few training pilot managers.

Btw, in archaic Russian, the word dacha means something given. By the end of the 19th century, the dacha became a favorite summer retreat for the upper and middle classes of Russian society. In simple language, it means “country house”.

Lei Yue Mun

Lei Yue Mun (鯉魚門) is like Hong Kong’s answer to the Fishermen’s Wharf in San Fransisco. It’s known as a “seafood village” for decades, and Lei Yue Mun is also one of the 101 reasons why we all love Hong Kong. Lei Yue Mun is not just one restaurant but a whole village of seafood restaurants. The locals all have their favorite ones so I don’t want to argue here which one is the best.

One thing you cannot miss is the Hong Kong-style cheesy lobster spaghetti in cheese (芝士龍蝦伊麵). Some will also go for pepper and salt mantis shrimp (椒鹽攋尿蝦). Those are the two seafood food items you probably can only find and enjoy in Hong Kong.

Mandarin Grill + Bar

What can I say? I’m a fan.

This one needs no introduction actually. If you live in Central and don’t know what to eat today, MO (aka “Mandarin Oriental”) will never disappoint you. Its grill is a hidden gem in Central, for both business dinners or several friends who want to get together privately. In comparison, I find MO grill does much better job than its competitor Grand Hyatt, which is also quite well known for its steakhouse.

My favorite is New Zealand’s M9 class wagyu ribeye. M9 is rare in Hong Kong.

Co Thanh Restaurant

I found this restaurant completely by chance. One day my friend, Hong Kong’s well-respected former legislator Charles Mok and I met for some drinks. After two bottles of beer, we decided to go for some real food. Charles introduced me this new Vietnamese restaurant, which is actually in my neighborhood in Central. Everything here tasted surprisingly good, especially the bun, with all delicious foodstuff roasted inside, including a well fried egg!

It’s also worth to introduce the Kau U Fong (九如坊) area where you may find many other popular food places, for example, The Chairman, which is best known for its fried crabs with vermicell and you have to get on its wait list for at least a month to book. I didn’t get that luck this year.

SUPPA

Last but not the least, how can I forget hot pot? Friends who know me will say George is such a big fan of hot pot. I can eat hot pot for breakfast, lunch, dinner, or even as “midnight snack”.

SUPPA, or 十下 (which means “ten times” literally in Chinese), is a Hong Kong old-fashioned style hot pot restaurant in Causeway Bay. Why “old fashioned”? Because many of us just like the “old Hong Kong”. How about having hot pot with a bunch of friends around a large wood table? And the background music is all those classic Cantopop songs from the “Four Heavenly Kings” (四大天王). Fantastic, right?

You can order a “two in one” pot, half spicy and the other half at your wish, like drunken chicken soup or traditional Chinese medicine flavor (which is supposed to be good for your health). The restaurant is very Instagram-friendly too, making you feel almost in a typical TVB home setting of some old Cantonese TV dramas.

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Taiwanese Beef Noodle

December 19, 2020 by George Chen in Hong Kong

I’m a big fan of noodles as people say we Asian do love eating noodles.

It may sound ironic but it is true that the total number of all noodle shops in Hong Kong may be just a bit less than in Japan. Of course Japan is well known for its ramen culture and history (partly also due to Chinese cuisine of noodles, aka 中華料理). That is to say the noodle business in Hong Kong has been always a highly competitive one.

Among all kinds of noodles, Taiwanese beef noodle is many eaters’ favorite. “Iron Cow” (鐵牛) got my attention last year when it began to expand aggressively across Hong Kong Island and Kowloon. It’s a chain restaurant and claims to have several branches in Taiwan but my Taiwanese friends said they didn’t notice so. Well, to be fair, there are just too many good places to go and eat in Taiwan. For example, the most famous and award-winning beef noodle in Taipei is the “Champion Beef Noodles” of the Regent Taipei Hotel.

In terms of pricing, Iron Cow seems reasonable. You can get a huge bowl of spicy beef noodle for less than HK$70 (about US$9). That’s quite good, considering Hong Kong is one of the most expensive cities for living in the world. A cup of latte at Starbucks can easily cost you half of that price for the beef noodle. In fact, I saw at least twice some young couples went to Iron Cow and ordered just one bowl to share given the portion was big enough for two persons.

If you are a bit hungry, you can also try some small dishes (小菜), including steamed vegetables and bovine offals (牛雜). My favorite is bovine tripe, even better if you eat spicy.

According to local media reports, there are some romantic stories behind the development of the chain restaurant: The boss for Iron Cow was actually originally from Hong Kong and he migrated to Taiwan many years ago because he fell in love with a Taiwanese girl. The boss learned everything about Taiwanese beef noodle from scratch and eventually opened his own shop in Taiwan. About three years ago, he decided to return to Hong Kong and open the first branch. Bravo!

I’m just curious why the official English name for the chain restaurant is called Iron Cow instead of Iron Bull. Cow might be good for bubble tea (which you can also order at the restaurant and it usually goes with your noodle set) rather than for noodle. Anyway, the name doesn’t really matter as long as the noodles taste very good.

The Beauty of Night in Hong Kong

December 19, 2020 by George Chen in Hong Kong

“Excuse my French.”

I love the beauty of night in Hong Kong. Hong Kong never sleeps. Perhaps the darker, the more resistant.

What do you want to say to the world and Hong Kong if your French may be excused?

我哋真係好撚鍾意香港！